DELI MAN is not a movie about food. On the surface, it appears to be a documentary about deli food and it’s history, but in truth is much more focused on a passion. This film chronicles the passion of a handful of men passionate about a rapidly dying breed of cultural establishments and their determination to stick it out. This is great because, honestly, we really don’t need more food documentaries. We have plenty.
Much of this lively, often humorous documentary focuses on one man, David “Ziggy” Gruber, a curious kid with an old spirit turned classically trained chef turned deli owner and operator. Directed Erik Greenberg Anjou rightfully spends a lot of time with Ziggy, as he wears his passion on his sleeve and truly knows what he’s doing. Anjou chronicles Ziggy’s formative childhood years, his inspiration and journey to becoming the heart of one of the last great delicatessens to survive through personal interviews with the man himself as well as with friends and family.
DELI MAN maintains a light-hearted tone, incorporating formally staged segments with more candid moments in the deli and in Ziggy’s personal life, which helps tell the big picture of what it takes and what’s at stake, clinging onto a dream that few still share. Ziggy doesn’t just promote himself and his deli, but takes the audience on a tour of the past present and future of the deli life and his neighborhood, on which is what a deli ultimately dives. With neighborhoods changing or even dying, how does a deli survive, or does it adapt? This is a problem with not just one answer, as we see through various deli owner’s experiences.
Anjou adds an element of celebrity credibility, of sorts, sprinkling several interviews with well-known deli patrons throughout the film. Interviews from the likes of Jerry Stiller, Larry King, Fyvush Finkel, and more add levity, humor and an air of notoriety to the film, but when its all said and done, its Ziggy who is the star and who carries the emotional and memorable punch that gives the film its charm.
DELI MAN fully immerses the audience in the deli culture, both in a booth as a customer preparing to savor a juicy pastrami sandwich and behind the counter in the kitchen, lovingly and masterfully preparing the food so crucial to so many patrons daily life. With a history as rich as this, and one which many will find is not exactly what they presumed — courtesy of Anjou’s research and casual approach to covering — its difficult not wanting to run out to the nearest deli and grab a bite after seeing the film. Unfortunately, seeing the film awakens a harsh reality that these true delicatessens are harder to find than ever.
From mouth-watering flavors to fascinating stories, DELI MAN satisfies many cravings for good cultural documentaries. This is a friendly, fun and freely flowing film, not tied down to a traditional sluggish structure like so many documentaries. As Ziggy says in the film, “if only they could smell with their eyes,” referring to the audience of the film, you’ll definitely agree after seeing DELI MAN and catching the deli bug from the film’s central subject.
DELI MAN opens at Landmark Theatres – Plaza Frontenac today, Friday, March 27th, 2015.
Overall Rating: 3.5 out of 5 stars
